Pedalling through Kutch
February 2024, Kutch, Gujarat
An unforgettable bicycle trip across the surreal landscapes of
Kutch. Covering 300 km over 4 days. With the support of a tribe
like no other.
This is the story of how I pedalled my way from nervous anxiety to
everlasting memories. And from self doubt to self liberation.
Preparation
I enrolled for this ride on one of my friend's suggestion, who had done it last year. I needed a goal to start cycling again. It was the very first time for me to go on a solo trip and with all unknown people. Lots of anxiety - Cycling in Kutch for 300 km in 4 days seemed a lot considering my little practice, managing things at home while I am away, worried about the extreme weather in the desert with cold mornings and really hot days.
The enrollment forced me to start practising every weekend or every long weekend that came, slowly increasing my stamina and riding from 10km to 20km to 50km. As the dates got closer, suddenly the tiredness of driving back from office vanished and I went cycling even in the evening when I got 30mins time to myself. The preparation didn't seem enough but I think I made the most out of the time I had.
Making sure the cycle was serviced and fitted well for the ride was one of the top priorities. Got that done first.
The first meeting with the Speaking Wheels team made me a bit comfortable, at least having a face to the names slowed my mind from making wild guesses.
Then followed rounds of shopping for all cycling gears. Multiple visits to decathlon and nearby sports stores slowly closed my list.
The day when we had to deliver cycles to be packed and sent to Bhuj, made me realized that this was happening for real. My beloved cycle was dismantled and packed carefully for her long journey till Bhuj in a tempo. Met the Speaking wheel group second time, making me feel a bit less nervous.
We all decided to hire a tempo traveler and set out for Mumbai together, which was another opportunity to get to know people before the ride began.
Everyone in the group was part of the Speaking Wheels tribe for a long time and there were only a couple of us who were outsiders and only me who was going with them for the first time. In spite of this strangeness no one let me feel that way, everyone was friendly and included me in their discussions.
The overnight train ride was comfortable and in the morning we all regrouped in one compartment to continue with the fun conversations.
Day 1, 8th Feb, 15 km
Bhuj, Bike Check and Local Sight Seeing
We reached Bhuj around noon. By this time I was far more comfortable with the team than my first day. We all cramped up in a tum-tum with a lot of luggage, all literally squeezing in, headed to the Hotel.
On entering the hotel, the first thing we saw was our cycles already in place, assembled and lined up. The feeling of riding through this interesting terrain of Kutch started sinking in.
Of course a Gujarti thali lunch was a must in Gujarat. With so many delicacies on the plate, everyone got more than something they liked. After a hearty lunch the plan was to ride around Bhuj, a small ride, to ensure that our cycles are ready for the coming days. A local cycle mechanic came in and ensured that the cycles were refitted correctly.
Bhuj is a small place with narrow, crowded roads with rickshaws, cattle, vendors and dust. Bhuj Praj Mahal was a beautiful ancient monument, with everything a palace has, great Italian Gothic architecture (surprisingly), huge durbars, carving, painting and a story to tell.
On our way back we got lucky to time the sunset with the Hamisar Lake. The sunset by the water and with our cycles was a pleasure.
What's being in Kutch without tasting the well known Kutchi Dabeli, so the dinner had us salivating on it. The day ended well with a briefing from our lead about the next day.
Day 2, 9th Feb, 60km
Fossil Park and Layaari
Speaking wheel riding days always start on time with a good warmup session, so that we are mentally and physically fit to start riding. At dawn, all bags were out, placed in the tempo and the riders prepped up on their cycle with head and tail lights blinking. We started off from Bhuj towards Nirona.
It was a day of moderately difficult routine with a lot of stops. Moving out of the city on the highway, we saw farms of castor, mustard, pomegranate and cotton along the way. At first we stopped at Rudramata dam. The picturesque sunrise with beautifully painted sky and a hot cup of chai made a wonderful start.
Then we rode off to Nirona stopping on the way for a scrumptious breakfast in a traditional dhaba. Nirona had 2 very unique local art forms - Rogan Art (painting made from castor oil and color pigments) and copper bells. After learning more about these art forms and some satisfying shopping we headed off to Fossil park.
Fossil park was a lovely place in the middle of nowhere. Small circular rooms gave us the first feeling of Bhungas.
Evening we had a “Toofan” ride to Layaari, beautiful stone formations due to water streams. The river bed was dry but the wonders of water made natural transformations in the stones and they looked like a miniature version of grand canyon.
On return we saw the fossil museum with fossils as old as a hundred million years. There were fossils of plants, corals and even dinosaurs. This told us about the long history as well as the diverse terrain of Kutch. Following it was a quiet sunset with peacocks freely roaming around.
Local Kadhi Kichadi. dinner satisfyingly ended our day.
Day 3, 10th Feb, 70 km
Riding through Chhari towards White Desert of Rann
Today was the most important and exciting day of our ride. We were ready to ride in the barren desert of Chaari. The most unique experience one can ever have.
We started by at dawn toggling the local village life, beautiful cattle then slowly entering the desert. The loose sand made it impossible to pedal on, so we had to carry the cycles by hand and we hopped onto them at the first opportunity we got. The desert started with little thorny shrubs around. Sand had settled on the roads originally covered by gravel. Occasionally there were bare patches of gravel rattling our bones. We kept making our way through it to slowly realize that we had reached in the middle of nowhere. Then on that parched cracked dry land, we were greeted with our tempo. An elaborate breakfast was neatly laid out on a table. This unforgettable moment can't be recreated in any different setting. The sun was hot the sand was loose but the spirits were so high that nothing mattered. After lots of fun, pictures and tummies full we started off again.
Throughout this slowest desert stretch of 25km we saw a flock of vultures, a caravan of camels and bird feet on sandy roads. A lone truck passed by creating a dust cloud along the trail and making us realize that even a motorized vehicle has its challenges moving through this terrain. The few local surprised motorcyclists in this barren patch wondered what our group was upto and some even stopped to enquire. Even if it was hard to cycle, this part of the ride was indeed the most unique and unforgettable experience of my life.
Moving back on tar road was a mixed feeling. The sun started to act on and we looking forward to the lunch pedalled towards Hodka.
The lunch was simple but a most common Gujarati dish of thepla, achar and dahi. Not wasting a lot of time we soon headed towards our next destination Goriwali home stay in Bhungas. Amidst the tired legs and the temperature rising a welcoming drink of lemonade freshed us up. Everyone was looking forward to another exciting part of the day, the visit to White Rann of Kutch. Everyone got freshened up and dressed up in beautiful bright coloured clothes for the sunset at Rann. Our dear tempo took us from our home-stay to Dhordo. Standing in a wobbling tempo and passing through a desert made me feel as if I was refugee trying to migrate illegally.
The Rann Utsav was a happening place with lots of tents, shops, event stages and finally food stalls. It's never is a bad time for chaat, so after quickly grabbing some spicy chaat we headed to the Rann in a camel cart. The beautifully decorated camels and the musical ghungaroos on them made us enjoy the ride. The Rann - a vast expanse of salt desert, an unbelievable sight. Everything as far as your eyes could see was white salt. There is nothing between you and the horizon except this white salt. The sky was beautiful, the people were colorful a lot of chatter around but still felt peaceful. The most amazing sunset brought all colors of the rainbow in the sky at the same time in a 360 view. A place definitely worth visiting.
The day ended with the most important activity of cleaning our cycles to ensure the sand was off the gears and cogs to have a smooth ride tomorrow. The campfire and singing around it made the night warmer and calmer.
Day 4, 11th Feb, 100km
The Day of the 100
Today we started on time to make the most of the morning cool. Passing back through Dhordo, Rann gates we took a turn to the infinity road. The road that went straight till infinity and beyond. This road was one of its kind- a smooth, well-marked, straight road with desert on both sides going till the horizon. Here I realized why this ride was named "Infinity and beyond".
Everyone took up their own pace and pedalled to happiness in their own rhythm and zone. It felt like I was almost meditating. There was no rush to pedal, there was not a lot of traffic and there was nothing around, just you, your cycle and the road reaching the infinity. As the road ended all of us had the same feeling that it should have been longer.
We stopped for a packed breakfast at a local dhaba. Set off soon to our next target of India Bridge. India Bridge was the last bridge before the Pakistani border.
The road was long, hot and a busy highway. Graceful herds of cows kept crossing us. Little local kids dressed in kaftans gave us the most innocent smiles. A little clap on their hands or a simple "Bye" brought immense happiness to them. I wondered what they thought. Maybe they were just astonished to see people cycling on the highway or maybe they wished they had cycles to ride on to school.
The India Bridge was an Indian military border out post. Seeing those army soldiers made us feel grateful for their selfless service.
The return journey was tiresome with the sun right on top and the headwinds slowing us with every passing truck.
We kept pedalling and few of us pedalled even more to complete my our first ever 100km on a cycle. The cheering and enthusiastic appreciation from the tribe made it worth all the effort.
After a long day we did some good round of stretching. This followed a round table conversation, play time and fun filled activities with everyone. We got to know more about each other as every one told their life journey. Every journey was unique and learnt a lot from it - little acts of kindness matter, follow your passion, fight all odds, preserve yourself, get over bullying, learn from your mistakes and many more.
Those stories and people made a permanent place in my heart.
Day 5, 12th Feb, 50 km
An end, a Beginning and Liberation!
The last day was here already. As done so far, we were ready before time - bags out, cycles ready and the final clicks done.
We started cycling back on the Bhuj highway. The destination was closer and the experience was about to end. Everyone was riding to enjoy today.
I was confident that today nothing can go wrong and I will make it till the finish. My anxieties had been converted to memories and I had a fulfilling feeling. A great satisfaction that I made the choice to come on this trip in spite of all fears. I felt grateful for everyone back home, who let me be carefree 'me' for these 5 days, without worrying about work, home or kids.
I felt liberated. These 5 days were days full of learning and without any judgments. I wasn't a mother or a wife or a daughter or anyone, I was just being ME.
The ride came to an end at Bhuj and so did my journey.
What's with a group of ladies if we don't go shopping. So in the little time we got we hurried back, got ready all packed up and went shopping. Shopping for local clothes, food and even managed to get a toy for my son!
The train journey back was a reflection time. Again filled with lots of laughter, remembering our time together and knowing each other even better.
At dawn as the train entered Bandra station I was struck with the most pleasant surprise - my family waiting for me holding a “Welcome Home Mumma” poster.
Some memories are created for lifetime and this definitely made it to be one of the top ones.
Hoping to have lots more like this in the future.
